Devils Tower

I had mixed feeling about going to Devils Tower before we left the Tetons, doing the Grand was really cool and i'd been reading my guide book for the Eastern Sierras and i was starting to think that if we waited too late in the season that we wouldn't get anything done but now, as we drive away from the tower i've got a very ccol buzz after a fun three days. We arrived in the arvo and went for a walk around the base of the tower to check out all the lines and decide which we wanted to do. At the nearest decent sized town, Gillette, we'd been in the library and i'd made photocopies of a very small guidebook of select climbs and it was this that we were now refering to ... the Walt Bailey memorial climb reads as follows .. 5.9, 4 star, beautiful sustained hands,165 feet, bring extra medium stoppers ... it doesn't mention anything about the first 100 feet being hard finger locks. i didn't bring anything smaller than one .3 camalot and was convinced i was somehow on the wrong climb so i set a bomber nut and lowered off as the fingerlock turned into fingertips, the foothold blanked out, and afew drops of rain started falling. Just around the corner we found another 4 star 5.9, Soler, and went up that with much more ease, only afew tough sections and pretty sustained on the second pitch that lead us up to an area called the Meadows. From the meadows you scramble 4th class to the summit but at first glance you think 'no way' but it was pretty straight forward once we got going ... only afew sections where falling could have meant a looong fall. The summit was alot smaller than we were expecting and was in the cloud when we were up there, so just a quick signing of the summit register and off to find the ring bolts to rap down. We were rapping of the other side of the mountain and once we found the bolts it was kinda scarey rapping off and hoping we had the right bolts and would find the next bolts ok somewhere on the side of the mountain but it was all pretty straight forward and three rappels later we were on the ground, without getting the ropes stuck in the rope eating cracks. you feel like abit of a star as you get back to the tourist trail and groups of people waiting to ask question and take photos, one group found us back in the carpark to thank us for the show and get our email to send us the pics they took of us.
The next day was rain and was spent hanging about using the free wifi at the local souvenir shop a quick cruise to the nearest town for pizza and back to our nice little campsite in the state forest ... free camping, nobody else around, parked in the grass next to a little stream, watching the rain fall. There wasn't a cloud in site the next morning and the plan was to climb yet another 4 star 5.9 with a 4 star 5.10a approach pitch. We stretched the 2 pitches of the 5.10 into one long by having Ula start climbing up the easy start ramp to give me enough rope to reach the anchors. The 5.9 ... far out, what a mega long sustained crack, about 50m using doubles of #.75, triples of #1 and doubles of #2 along with a bunch of smaller stuff at the finger crack start. We rapped of the same way as the other day and spent the arvo hanging out in the carpark with some other climbers and generally having a great time. Oh yeah, i even got back the nut i bail on from the first day ... i had to hang my head abit as the girl handed it back to me even after i insisted that it was fair booty and she should keep it ... but secretly i was actually pretty happy, it was one of my faves ;) All in all, a very worthwhile trip

Time marches on ...

I've gotten slack on the blog, mostly due to not publishing before we get to another place. For whatever reason i feel compelled to post stuff in a chronological order so when i miss a destination, that's where the trouble starts. I also wanted to change blogs and we've got a rest day in Boulder so i think it's time to tackle it, the new site does have some sort of subscription feature but not quite as simple as i'd hoped, i was hoping that i could have something that would notify people via a short email when i'd put in a new post and it has something similar but not exactly so if you know of anything that can do this please tell me. I'm reading help sites and feeling like such an idiot because i don't understand the bits which they gloss over at the start, assuming that any moron knows that bit.
There's a list of blogs that i've cut and paste from the previous blog page and afew that i've had as word docs on my hard drive.
We've got a couple of weeks before we're planning to be in Yosemite to meet up with Tanya and Jenny ... it'll be cool to see some familiar face after so long. We'll probably spent a couple more days around here in Boulder then head off for a week or so in Utah, mostly around Moab and the Canyonlands.
Boulder is pretty cool ... just ask any one who lives here, actually, you don't even need to ask, they're more than happy to tell they you. The food and shops are good, Ula has a new favourite gear store, Montbell, which does very nice, ultralight gear. The climbing in Eldorado Canyon is fantastic, we've done a bunch of multipitches since we've been here and they're all fantastic with Yellow Spur 5.10b going to that fuzzy, undecided area at the top of my all-time favourites list.
The thing that sucks here is the camping ... there is none, we've been hanging out at the crag(state park, no camping) then cruising back to town when it's dark to find an inconspicuous place in the neighbourhoods to stop and pull the curtains. It's been no problem so far but it's nicer when we don't have to be sneaky or drive for miles out of town to find something. We haven't had to pay for a night yet, if we're in an area to climb we usually look for the BLM (bureau of land management) land or for national forests were you can usually camp for free. It's not that the camping is expensive, usually $12 a night for no facilities up to $21 with facilities, it's just that we're not setting up a tent so paying for somewhere to park the car for the night just doesn't seem to make sense to us. We really had some good luck in Yellowstone, the camping there is at the more expensive end, it's crowded, and the park is big, too big for us to be able to drive out and find somewhere for the night. The luck came while climbing in the tetons when we met up with a couple climbing with there young son, Liz worked at the clinic in Yellowstone and has a staff cabin in the park where she invited us to stay for a couple of days. What a score, we camped in the van in the driveway and had use of the shower and kitchen and a real loungeroom to relax in at night, it felt like luxury for a couple of days.
i've only been spooked a couple of times and made Ula get up in the middle of the night to drive further down the road because i was sure the boogie man was outside.

Zebra Zion and the Monkey Face

Zeba Zion, 3 pitch 5.10b went well, unfortunately i took a rest in the crux ... could not commit to do a very weird balance move in the crux even though the green Alien i had protecting it was bomber. The second pitch had a pretty airy traverse with no gear and the third pitch, well the third pitch was stellar, such exposure laying back off a flake three pitches up but having easy climbing at the same time. A side note mentioned in the guidebook was that Fred Beckey lead that pitch at 78 years old ... i meet him a couple of times in Banff and the guy is my hero, a lifetime climbing bum and still going.
We had abit of a rest day after that ... at the carpark of the Park, they have a very nice picnic area with the softest green grass, tables and trees so we spent the day just lazing about there ... well actually we spent most days just lazing about there when it was too hot to climb. We've still got our hammock from Thailand with us so we'd string it up between the trees and have lunch, they also have sprinklers running all day, every day which kind of did away with the need to have shower at the end of the day :)
The next day was an early start and we headed off to climb the Monkey Face on the other side of the park, unfortunately we didn't take the camera but the climb was alot of fun. The third pitch is an aid climbing pitch(goes free at 5.13 or something), a bolt ladder going up the overhanging face. We don't have any aiders but the bolts were close enough(only just at the start) to haul on the quickdraw and clip the next bolt ... i thought it looked pretty simple but bugger me it was hard work, the top out onto the ledge in the monkeys mouth was a nightmare and i had a moment of dread thinking that i was gonna have to bail on the last bolt or do some awful, awkward flop onto the ledge so i opted for the last one. The last bolt of the ladder was on the lip of the ledge and the anchor out of reach so i was standing with one foot in a sling, heal hooking a slopey ledge, desperately trying to find anything i could hold to stop me rolling back off the edge ... if my reach was just 10mm shorter i would have been screwed. After that it was just a matter helping Ula haul her way up the draws. The 4th pitch, also very cool, stepping out of the monkeys mouth onto the face is refered to, in the guidebook, as the 'panic point' as you step out onto the top of an overhang that drops 60m onto a slope falling away even further. It made for a nice rappel, almost a full 60m of free hanging space.
Afew more climbs in the afternoon finished the day, one being a nice onsight of a crack climb i'd been checking out. I feel completely shagged now and my body needs a decent rest and lots rehydrating so today we've decided to pull the pin on Smith Rocks and start making our way across Idaho to Wyoming. More adventures to come.

Smith Rocks

After our climbing session last night, i've finally kicked into enjoying Smith Rocks ... not that i wasn't enjoying it before but it felt like i had to work at it, we were getting up before dawn and heading in to climb and having to stop when it got too blisteringly hot in the sun but yesterday we decided to wait till the afternoon and that made all the difference. Climbing in the shade and having a nice warm breeze that wasn't getting any hotter was what i'd been looking for, plus we had a cool adventure which, i guess felt like one of our first proper multipitch adventures. It was only a 2 pitch climb but Ula wanted to lead the first trad pitch, a 3 star crack climb up a thin ramp, and i finished on the second pitch, which was a 4 star sport climb that was pretty easy but had some amazing exposure along an arete ... i think they'd added a grade just for the position.
Out first couple of days here were actually spent as rest days about 1.5 hours from Smith Rocks at a place called Elk lake, up in the mountains. We spent the time just hanging out, slacklining, swimming and eating before heading back down to the heat of the valley ... there are alot of rivers around Smith Rock but they're not in great condition for swimming. We have another climb planned for tonight, which i'm pretty excited for ... a 3 pitch 5.10b that looks fantastic, hopefully a good report coming

Lost time at Squamish ....

Better late than never, Squamish is in the past and i'm writing this from a Starbucks in Bend, Oregon because it's too hot to even think about going outside, we have to start climbing at dawn till it gets hot or wait till dusk to get anything done
Two weeks at Squamish ... where did the time go? well, i do know the answer to that ... some of British Columbias finest produce that we weren't able to take across the border ... well i had to do my best to use it up ;) We had a pretty good run of weather in Squamish, only 3 or 4 days that we weren't able to climb due to weather and a couple due to being sore and resting. Even when it was sunny and we were on the rock, the temperature was bearable and the sun not vicious at all ... the crags at Squamish are really well set up and it was nice just hiking through the cool green forest, picking wild rasberries and boysenberries on the way to different areas.
Climbing at Squamish took abit of getting used to and the first couple of days made me a little more cautious and rethink my wishlist. The first climbs visited were afew easy sport routes, to get back into the swing of things ... apart from one day at Barrier Bluffs, near Banff, we'd not been on the rock since Thailand in January. I'd had the thought in my head that we'd do a trip past the Bugaboos, on the way to Squamish, but reluctantly put that one away as it would have been even earlier than last time i visited and that was considered early ... the weather proved it back then and was looking similar this time, i hadn't been as cold as i was during that visit back to the Bow Valley since we'd left it six weeks earlier to go to Alaska. It was abit of a bummer, we had some new lightweight crampons and iceaxes (Kahtoola crampons and Camp Corsa ice axes for the gear nerds) that i was looking forward to using before we put them away till we got to Sth America but the upside of it was that i was looking forward to getting in some decent time at an area ... until those first few days and we encountered slab climbing. It's been a long time since i've been on some real slab and that last time i probably said something like "i've really got no need to slab climb ever again" but during the first week i had several occasions of finding myself standing well above some tiny gear placement where the crack stopped pondering the next sequence of moves on vague ripples in the rock which could have even been imagined ... and this was just on the 5.9's There was just one slab climb (Ridge Runner) which i think, now that i'm off it, was brilliantly bolted ... bold enough to be terrifying but good enough that you'd only loose lots of skin if you fell.
The slab actually got alot more comfortable and we did some very cool climbing, we climbed 'Diedre', on the Chief, which is a really fun day out, and a bunch of stuff in Smoke Bluffs. 'Rock On' is a 5 pitch 5.10a in the south gully of the Chief and a couple of pretty exciting moments, i was running it out on the first pitch, as it was only 5.8, when i kicked out my only piece of gear for a long way as i went through the crux and got myself into an awkward position, requiring some sketchy downclimbing ... that kind of rattled my nerves for the next pitch and a half. The first pitch of 5.10a had a thin layback, over a bulge, straight off the anchor and with only one very small TCU in a pocket i had a moment of fear as i pulled over the bulge with dodgy feet. Other than that it was awesome and definately deserved the stars.
The camping was pretty cool there, we found ourselves a spot (free) on the forest road at the base of the Chief and were able to claim it most of the nights we were there. The Aquatic centre was a highlight of Squamish when not climbing ... cheap, big pool with a diving board and cool toys, hot tub and sauna. We made a day trip to Whistler, on one of the rest days, where i was keen to have a go on the downhill bikes but in typical Nth American fashion (just to be different) they have their front and rear bike brakes on the opposite hands to Australian bikes (maybe it's us that's different) and i was too worried about going over the bars by grabbing the wrong brake at a bad moment but the trail system looked fantastic ... maybe next trip will be a bike trip ;)

New blog page

I'm having a go at a new blog page, the Google one is ok but has afew limitations that have become more obvious as we've used it more. This one also has the ability for friends to subscribe (i just have to work out how it works) so that it'll send out an email to subscribers when a new message is posted