Monday, May 3, 2010

Ecuador- April 2010


Ecuador was a bit of a surprise to me. I didn’t know anything about it when we crossed over and as we moved on the longer we wanted to stay. So for a month we happily zigzagged like 3 times from mountains to the coast and back, and we didn’t even touch on Orient which is the Amazonian east of the country.
I liked the Laguna los Dios near Ibarra where we camped and hiked for the day. People come and dive in this volcanic lake and its water is crystal clear; and at the foot of a volcano.

It just happened so that we arrived to Ecuador in rainy season and particularly rainy too- it was raining almost every day or nite while we were there, sometimes a lot. San Miguel was a tiny little village 4 hours up the stream of Papayan River from the coast. We decided to spend Easter there, Thursday in, Sunday out. They had this awesome house there for the visitors- it’s huge, it’s on the hill overlooking river and it’s got hammocks. And we were the only guests then. Every morning a woman would come to cook us breakfast and lunch and if we wanted to also dinner. And as it was holiday there were celebrations in the village every day, and nite for a good measure. They had a missionary church there. They invited us in for Good Friday celebrations. It started with Kuko- their traditional dance, and then they did the quickest Camina de Cruzes I have ever seen, and I grew up in a catholic country. Then the whole Friday nite they were singing. On Saturday, we went to the church again, this time for dancing. We were all running in long snakes around the church hopping to the rhythm of bongos, sweating like hell, and I believe there was method to this madness, but it was fun, even if there wasn’t.

We wanted to leave that nite but there were no boats coming out as everybody was celebrating. So we stayed one more day.

On Sunday everybody was getting ready for the big dance party at nite. In the afternoon we started drinking a perfectly cooled beer (they have their priorities right) in a little social palapa (hut) and the way they drink it is that somebody buys a bottle ($1.25 for 750ml Pilsener), gets a couple of plastic cups and walks from one person to the other (or only the ones he/she wants) and pours them in a bit, until the bottle is empty. It seemed to be happening all the time and nobody seemed to care much about who to whom and how much- somehow it flew smoothly and everybody was happy. Every so often, somebody would serve Aguardiente- vodka made of sugar cane; acquired taste, so to say. Mick and I got ourselves a bottle of that concoction to somehow fill in the time during the day. It lasted us 2 days and that with me one nite throwing up from it. A well-trained local drinks a bottle and a half in one nite.

While we were drinking and dancing in the little palapa on the hill, it started to rain, then to pour. Soon, the party had to be relocated to bigger and drier area so it died out for a bit. Mick and I went to our room to sleep a little before we would catch a boat at 1am that nite. It never stopped raining so when we walked out at 12:30am all packed and ready to wave our boat, the river rose by 2 meters and flooded. There were no boats running that nite- too dangerous. What were we to do- we dropped our bags and joined the party.

The next morning the river dropped us quickly as it rose, so we kept our fingers crossed for the whole day that it wouldn’t rain anymore. We didn’t have any more money for accommodation and food but they let us stay in the house for the day and the lady who had cooked for us brought us some food. The music played the whole day in the canteen that day and I danced some more as some local saw a potential for salsa in me and fancied to teach me a bit. As the evening approached, it started to rain again. And then it poured. Hanging there in our hammocks we parted with thought of leaving that nite. It was quite a surprise when at 2am somebody all of a sudden emerged from complete darkness telling us to get ready as the boat was leaving soon... For Mick and me it was as if the sky opened and all the heavenly angels sang out together ‘Alleluia!’
That was our first week in Ecuador.
From Borbon, where we left our car while in San Miguel, we drove to Esmeraldas and Quito, back in the mountains. It rained a lot. We went to Laguna Quinaloa and from there back to the coast, for some sunshine. We spent a week in-between Canoa and Montanita, the later one being my favourite. We just hang out on the beach, watched the surf, drank rum and smoked at our leisure, chatted away with the befriended local family which let us park in front of their house/hostel, played hacky… you know, wasting time
J Once ready, we drove to Guayaquil for some supplies and there again, a local family invited us warmly to their house, showed us around town and fed with local specialties. Then we drove to Chimborazo. Within 24 hours we rose from the sea level to 4800m above sea level. Enough to say, it was a mistake. The first day that we spent hiking a bit around the volcano and just hanging out in the van, ended up for Mick with a sickening headache and for me with a smaller one, so we had an emergency drive-out at nite to some lower altitudes. We came back the next morning, thinking that we would be fine now. We were not. We hiked to 5300 and along with the afternoon, the headache was back. We didn’t wait too long after that. As the weather was just getting worse too, we decided to piss off to some hot springs. Unfortunately, the road we picked to Banos was impassable due to (I love that bit) volcano activity. They had this massive eruption in 2006 and I don’t know if that gap in the road that made us turn around, was a leftover of that or something more recent. Anyway, we spent that nite on that road and took a different road to Banos the next day.
Banos is touristy big time, but has this unreal location at the foot of an active volcano, and really nice hot springs. I liked their caldo the gallina for $1.50 which is a chicken soup with big piece of chicken inside. Caldo the patas
wasn’t as nice, but I like pig feet (I know) so I still enjoyed it.
From Banos we drove south through the mountain again, to Cuenca which Mick liked a lot. We spent a couple of days hiking around Cuenca in a national park Las Cajas- beautiful rigid mountains with bare grassy hills, rocky ridges, ubiquitous lakes and creeks and meadows. The weather wasn’t on our side but we still had fun being out there on our own (no guides needed for once!), looking for trails, cheering the sun and admiring the country.

From there, it was a drive in mist and rain through Loja to Vilcabamba, a laid-back gringo town close to the boarder with Peru. This is where we are now. Tomorrow, we probably will cross over the boarder. There is not much more I can say about this town, others that it is a good base to relax with a book and write a blog.

Ecuador
was great for me. It took me by surprise, I enjoyed it a lot and I will recall it very fondly when I am old and wrinkled, telling stories to my grandchildren.

Colombia- March 2010

I slacked again, never getting around telling you about Colombia, while I was fresh out of there. Now, it will have to be Colombia from the perspective of 3 weeks in Ecuador, which has been quite awesome, too. It might sound a bit different.

We arrived on the Caribbean coast of Colombia at the end of Feb 2010 and we spent 5 days in Cartagena waiting for our car to arrive; there was an earthquake in Chile, tsunami warnings everywhere, maybe that was why our boat was running late. Or maybe not, who knows, the fact was we were stuck in town and we were in a bit of a hurry…

It sure was an intro to Colombia, arriving to Getsemani suburb of Cartagena at 10pm with its drunks, pimps, whores, potheads and bums all out on the streets, local nite life at its best. We didn’t have a room to stay at this stage. I had to laugh when we were hurrying from one hostel to the other, me limping on my freshly bruised foot (souvenir from loading our car into a container in Panama), not being able to catch up with Mick racing ahead, just to get us out of the street asap. Eventually, we got ourselves a room with a clinic-like look but it had a fan which I made the most of during our time in town ‘cause it was fucking hot. There are attractions around Cartagena- mud volcano, pretty beaches- but we didn’t do much other than checking out the old town and hanging out in cooled interiors, reading books and sampling new cuisine; and waiting for the car... when it finally arrived, we did the paper work and immediately took off towards Bogota where my mate Santiago was to be found for just one more week before returning to Oz. It took us 2 days to get there- the country is huge. It’s huge and amazingly beautiful… the landscapes, the people, the food… Unfortunately, it was also expensive. Sometimes we would spend US$30 a day in tolls just for the roads, a gallon of petrol cost more than US$4 (we got a big motor, full tank cost us more than US$100). Food and booze were pricey as for regional standards and so was entry to attractions which we were interested in. This made our stay in Colombia very modest, so to say. Nevertheless it was very cool.

Bogota was good. Old town looked really pretty and I loved the hills around the city. There, we hang out with Santiago, in the evenings drank rum and gin with his mum, whose 70 birthday we celebrated that week; we sampled food, learnt about Colombia, met new people; we even climbed in a local gym...

After Santiago left, we were back on the road again. Went to Suesca for climbing which didn’t happen, from there thru some amazing mountain roads we drove to the coast to Medellin. I have fond memories from Borbur in the mountains, where we spent the nite hanging out with the local kids. Then was the coffee region- Manizales and Sierra de Ruiz with some groovy hot springs. In Santa Rosa, again, we had a fantastic welcome from a local family, and visited beautiful hot springs. Salento was a relaxed, backpacker’s town serving trout on every corner and nearby Valle de Corcora was this pretty valley with its waxing palms and rigid hills. Cali was very busy so we stayed there short, but Popayan was kind of nice with its nearby hot springs and the cool colonial one-way streets. We had our thrill when we had to skip a visit to Tierradentro archaeological site due to security situation with guerrillas. And so our last attraction in Colombia was the Sanctuary Las Lejas (groovy church on a cliff) and a guinea pig for lunch (looks intimidating but tastes OK; mind you, I also like liver, tripe and gizzard).

Crossing over to Ecuador went smooth as. We stayed in Colombia just over a month. The highlights for me was catching up with my friend, the rigid mountains and hot springs. I would love to come back to see and do more ‘cause it is an amazingly beautiful country… maybe one day I will; when I am reach and famous… or bumming around the world again…